puka puka

is a new ish

art-music-clothing-surfboard

store/gallery

located in paia

i had the treat of getting to

visit

gawk

view

&

see

it the other day

its

a showcase of local achievement

that illustrates

a mash of classic and innovative

surfboard design

on display until december 31

don't miss it

the new single fin

waiting to get tried out

perfect for my 9'8 jimmy lewis

my faves from

leroy grannis'

book

called

surf photography of the

1960's and 1970's

i was

definately

born

in the

wrong

era

Innersection Movie Trailer 1 from INNERSECTION on Vimeo.

taylor steele's

newest creation

entitled

innersection: blue

debuts

among it's 25 feature surfers

is

canada's own peter devries

try and make it to

the premier

tomorrow tonight

in

victoria bc canada

at the victoria culture centre

7-11pm

(hosted by peter himself)

while perusing

nytimes.com

(travel section)

this morning

i came across

this series of

14

black & white

photos

surfing in north carolina

by

chris bickford

these 3 are my favourite:

was reading about these

two little

surfer girls

who

despite many obstacles

still

have found

a way

to catch some waves

in

Palestine

even

with

having to wear

about

four layers

of

clothes

while doing so

just to stay

properly covered up in public

they still make it

out

and surf

a story

where traditional

meets

the

not so traditional

it's not ideal

but

it is

progress

when i was in

the twelfth grade

i cut this picture

out of

surfer magazine

and glued into my

day planner

i'd totally forgotten about it

until

recently

browsing an

old photo archive

rob machado

photographed by

patrick trefz

circa 2004

costa rica

went on a

surf roadie this weekend

it was really nice

to get back in the water